Mount Canobolas Vineyard
Orange, NSW
As a winemaker then if you choose to stand by regionality and let the attributes drive the wine to truly represent the region then you could summarise it the following way.
To look at regionality in the context of what it theoretically stands for from 1st principles, then compare it with what it actually has achieved, you get the following characteristics.
Meteorology
Risk, variability, cold-cool-warm (GI consideration), risk of water deficit since no long term water availability; viz a reliance on rainfall.
Soil
Young, volcanic, with veins of shale, red coloured, not light, meaning water holding capacity, warm soil temperatures because of colour availability of minerals and therefore nutrition. Soil depletion only as a result of cultural practices, limiting factor would only be water from rainfall
Geography
Plenty of gradient options and sunlight opportunities with 360 degree land options.
History
Recent area so varietal and style more in line with market demand and greater understanding initially of what would perform. A fast tracked and instantly mature message.
Cultural
Decent infrastructure, initial market and source for expertise, regionally significant centre politically and economically.
Results
Elevation has been the biggest variant, and lack of winemaking facilities dragged the area back from initial brouhaha. Lack of delivery following initial explosion of opportunity has delayed an important reinforcing of quality by poor delivery (relative to expectation).
The areas above 850 m have delivered genuine bright perfumed, distinctive white wines. There is a delicacy and lightness that has not been exploited. This area can produce wines that are an antidote to phenolic extracted heavy Australian whites. Low alcohol whites well made (and this is difficult) will springboard them into recognition. This is what is different and this is why I want to be at or near the front in this style.
The rest of the area must use its continentality better to deliver red wines of perfume in a narrow frame. Very few wines can do this. The canopy management that we believed a region like Bordeaux could teach us has given green, extracted wines that proliferate the supermarket shelves in Europe.
